For the leotard, we were given a standard block to trace off so that we don’t have to waste time patterning it as we are already drafting catsuits.
After tracing the patterns onto paper and seam allowances added, they were traced onto the lycra and all key marking were transferred to the lycra using a tracing wheel.
So that it can also be seen from the right side, all markings are loosely tacked into place, stretching the fabric while tacking so that it doesn’t affect the stretch of the fabric. All side seams are then also tacked together before securing the seams with the overlocker.
The two legs are sewn differently to each other – one has elastic sewn just outside the seam allowance, when it is overlocked it gets folded over so that the fold is the finishing line. The other has a 3cm wide strip of lycra that is butted just inside the seam allowance, when this is overlocked it will create a channel and when pressed to the right side, the edge of the channel forms the finishing line. The armholes are sewn the same as the latter method but without having elastic inserted.
With all seams overlocked, the seams get pressed open and a piece of elastic is threaded through the leg channel.
To finish the neckline, a special elastic webbing is used. There is a line up the centre that gets pinned to the marking for the neckline and is tacked in place to the inside of the neckline. This allows the webbing to be lifted so that the fabric can be cut away at the neckline, making it possible to fold the webbing over the neckline and securing it with a short zigzag stitch.
The final step in completing the leotard was overlocking the crotch seam and sewing the shoulder straps to the front and back with a zigzag stitch, backstitching plenty of times to ensure a secure connection.